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Truth is Beauty 

Spring and Summer at the 2011 Academy Awards

3/3/2011

12 Comments

 
    Since I blogged only about Autumns and Winters at the Golden Globes (working and mothering cut into my computer time, alas), I think it's fair to focus on the Summers and Springs at this year's Academy Awards.

    I'll start with the adorable Reese Witherspoon.

    Despite how cute she is, it's hard to find pics of Reese in flattering colors; I get the feeling she's a Light Summer who's not comfortable with the perceived girliness and insubstantiality of the Light Summer palette.

    Here's one of the only pics I could find showing her in a color that's Light Summery:
Picture
    So sweet. I'd love to see her looking like this more often.

    The gown she wore to the 2006 Oscars was also a natural color:
Picture
    In both of the pics above, our eyes go to Reese's face. The colors look as if they're lifted right from her skin. Her naturally low level of contrast is not overwhelmed.

    For most big events, unfortunately, Reese chooses colors more appropriate for a Winter. This year's Oscars was no exception.

    (I won't nitpick right now about her artificially blonde hair. Though I oppose it on principle, she is, as a Light Summer, one of the few seasons who can convincingly fake blondisme.) 

Anyway -

    Things from the neck up are pretty harmonious, I think.
Picture
    Apart from the silly but inevitable black liner, the overall look is Reese, only better. She has a beautifully light and neutral-cool cheek, and a beautifully  light and neutral-cool lip. The hair is a natural-looking combination of golden, neutral and ash tones. Reese presents a beautiful Light Summer visage.
   
    It's when we zoom out that things become less sweet.
Picture
    To her credit, she's showing a lot of bare skin next to her face, which will always neutralize the effects of a bad color somewhat. (Your skin acts as a harmonious color.) Also, the band of white at the top of the dress isn't bad for her. 
    But the huge block of black, and the contrast between the black and the white, keep dragging the eyes down to the dress and away from her face.
   
    And when you look back up at her face, what you see first is black eyeliner and white teeth. Your brain is connecting them to the black and white of the dress.
   
    The result is that the black-circled eyes and the grinning mouth seem to leap out at us, detached from the rest of her face. Weird. Not lovely.
Picture
    Gwyneth Paltrow, another Light Summer, came very close to completely embodying her season's beauty. I believe she missed the mark by just a hair - or maybe I should say by an eye. Let's look first at those eyes:
Picture
    There is something peculiar and not Light Summery happening around Gwyneth's eye here. The liner and mascara are too dark, and the shadow reads as muddy.

    (The hair is also too one-dimensionally yellow for Light Summer, IMHO... but it's not a deal-killer. )

    I think it's the eyes alone that prevent Gwyneth from achieving full Light Summer radiance. See her in the gown, which should flatter a Light Summer.  You want to like it, but something's a tiny bit off.
Picture
   Now look at the picture again, and mentally fill in a more natural-looking eye:
Picture
    Way better, don't you think? The eye makeup was creating the interference.
    On to yet another Light Summer: Cate Blanchett.

    I almost always find that Cate Blanchett beautifully presents her true colors. Her Oscars look this year, though, was widely criticized. What was right and what wasn't?

    The face was perfect, I thought.
Picture
    Very light, very natural, more cool than warm as befits a Light Summer, and in the earring a tiny touch of golden glow. Just lovely.

(And she declined the too-dark liner that's de rigeur on red carpets. Strong woman!)
   
    So why all the criticism? I believe it was nothing more than the peculiar design of the dress.
Picture
    The big circle is just weird. And those crusty bits look uncomfortable.
   
    The colors in the gown are actually darn good for her. The white is cool and a touch greyish; the darker areas of the crusty bits read as greyish-pink and greyish-purple; and the tiny bit of bright yellow is a nice Light Summer accent.
Picture
    Wouldn't it have been wonderful to see her in a gown of these colors but with a more pleasing design? Oh well.
    Now for a few Springs.

    I suppose I'd better address Scarlett Johansson first and get it over with.
Picture
    When I look at this all I can think is, "Oh, Lord."

    She's so very, very beautiful. Yet most of us looked better at our high school prom than Scarlett does here. Why, Scarlett? Why the weirdly orange eye?  Why the violet lace? (And P.S. - Why the messy hair?)
    Well, Scarlett J. frequently picks colors that don't flatter her. (Google images of her and you'll see.) She's young and gorgeous, so we forgive her. She has time yet to discover the truth of her beauty. Here are a few examples of occasions when she has done better:
Picture
Picture
Picture
    Let's look at Scarlett again in that violet, alongside a lovely Deep Autumn who deserves the color:
Picture
    Like night and day. Or like Autumn and Spring. ;-)
    Another dress everyone was talking about was Amy Adam's deep blue gown. I saved a picture of the gown in a file called "OK, not great."  

    Before we look at it, though, let's see Warm Spring Amy in a really good color, at the 2008 Oscars:
Picture
    Oh, wow. Fantastic.

    Notice that she can handle a fair bit of depth. Some Warm Spring colors do go that deep. Notice also that she needs vivid (highly saturated) color.

    Now, to the dress in question. This blue is very close to one of  Warm Spring's deep blues. And it's nice and vivid. So why isn't the effect here as magical? Why do we see the dress before we see Amy?
Picture
    I think it's mainly an issue of balance.

    This is a very deep blue - as deep as Warm Spring's colors go. It's in the palette because it's the complement to one of Warm Springs beautiful oranges, but blue is a cool color. Coming right up to Amy's neck, it creates an effect of too much cool and deep. Yes, Warm Springs are flattered by contrast, but in this case the deep blue is more dominating than contrasting.
   
    See how much more flattering a similar blue is when Amy balances it with a larger expanse of very light skin:
Picture
    Here, the blue and the orange balance each other. The warmer lip helps as well. 

    Let's look at a Spring who, in spite of artificially lightened hair and a too-dark eye, reads as very natural: Jennifer Lawrence.
Picture
    The right color can make up for a lot.

    Honestly, I'm not sure what Jennifer's exact season is. I never noticed her before the Oscars. I only know she's a Spring because she looks so perfectly balanced in this very warm, highly saturated color, and because the blonde hair doesn't look totally wrong on her. (Again,  I won't nitpick, though I'm sure her true color would be more glorious.)

    Is she Bright, maybe? I think not... Imagine this outrageous color going all the way up to her chin, like Amy Adams' gown. I don't think it would work. I think there's a limit to how much color this girl can take.
 
    What other Springs and Summers got it right - or wrong?
12 Comments
GraceKelly
3/3/2011 07:36:09 pm

what a fantastic article thank you.

Reply
Bethany
3/4/2011 11:21:09 am

Great article! I love how detailed you are. Would you mind "analysing" some cool winters too? I would particularly be interested in non-typical winters! Also, another humble request: What season do you think Dita von Teese is? Note: Her real hair colour is blonde.

Thanks for your brilliant website. Keep it up!

-Bethany

Reply
Rachel
3/4/2011 11:29:57 am

Thanks, GraceKelly!

Bethany - I'll put it on the agenda. I've actually been thinking about Dita von Teese a lot. Some people might think her look is a typical Winter's, but it always strikes me that she looks pale and ghostlike in the Winter coloring - which of course is the point, because that's her aesthetic, but a real Winter would look alive in those colors.

Reply
Amy
3/4/2011 12:46:32 pm

Such a great post! I'm curious to hear more about your thoughts on natural hair color and why you believe it is superior to artificial. Amy Adams is a natural blond, but red seems to fit her very well. I read that she feels more herself as a redhead. Would you rather she go natural? Also, what about those of us who have neutral to cool hair? Wouldn't the right type of highlight add sparkle versus plain and flat? I look forward to hearing your thoughts. :)

Reply
Rachel
3/5/2011 07:03:53 am

Amy - Really good question. I've been working on and off on a blog article exploring the aesthetic assumptions of color analysis. I think it will address your question. Hope to finish it soon. :-)

Reply
Hanna
3/5/2011 05:55:33 pm

To be fair to Scarlett's hair, that's an impossible length to do much of anything with.

@Amy's comment about plain and flat hair: No one has single colour hair naturally, it's made up of strands in sorts of different shades. Mine can look anywhere from medium-dark blonde to medium-dark brown and sometimes has a reddish cast to it but is actually mostly made up of light to medium/medium-dark blond strands with a fair amount of black (or else dark enough to seem black) strands and some golds and coppers mixed in as well (which is probably why it sometimes looks a bit red).

Even the purest white hair will have some variation among the strands and because of that won't look plain and flat either.

Reply
Amy
3/7/2011 06:24:07 am

Thanks, Rachel. I can't wait to read it! Hannah, I appreciate your insights too. I have medium value neutral blond hair. Camel would be a good description of the color. Like yours it can look slightly red or if I wear dull colors it can look somewhat ashy. It is completely natural at this time, but I don't know if I look my best. In the past when I have highlighted it to get more dimension I've received many compliments. Now that it is untreated it seems plain. Some have told me they like it, while others recommend I highlight again. Shouldn't the natural look be most flattering? Or does that only work for naturally glamorous light blonds, dark brunettes, rich redheads, etc? How do those with beige or ashy hair look best?

Reply
Shirley
3/17/2011 06:09:50 am

Rachel,
Enjoy reading your commentary. Wonder if you would comment on Jodie Foster since she's in the news today with a new movie coming up. Most color analyists call her a Light Summer, but her clothing and makeup reads Soft Summer to me.

Reply
Rachel
3/17/2011 08:00:33 am

Amy -

So many of us ask this same question about our hair. Can I first recommend an excellent blog post by Christine Scaman on the subject of compliments?...

http://12blueprints.com/compliments/

It's possible that highlights are particularly flattering to you.

It's also possible that when you change your hair, or anything else significant about your appearance, some people will always praise it because it's the polite thing to do.

And it's also possible that those who prefer your hair highlighted have a particular aesthetic that you may not share.

Here are some of my biases, in beauty and in life generally: I value simple over complicated, natural over artificial, and effective over ineffective.

Because of these biases, my vote is almost always in favor of natural color.

Simple vs. complicated: speaks for itself.
Natural over artificial: ditto.

Effective over ineffective: this is the one I'm going to argue for.

My thinking is this: There are a thousand different ways you could change the color of your hair. About nine hundred and ninety of them wouldn't harmonize with the natural colors of your body. A handful of them would.

But what are the chances that a colorist will a) identify a completely harmonious way to alter your hair's color, and b) maintain that perfect harmony over months or years?

Based on all the very, very wrong hair color there is in the world, I think the chances are extremely slim.

By comparison, the chance that your natural hair color harmonizes perfectly with the rest of you is 100%.

So since it's more likely to be effective, I vote natural.

:-D

Reply
BibiQue
4/5/2014 03:54:19 am

I think Scarlett is a summer, not a spring type.She is not good in that orange, but you re right, she doesnt choise too lucky colors anyway. :)

Reply
Maia
3/24/2015 03:02:32 pm

Regarding the blue dress, I think (just judging from the palettes I find online, which I realize is flawed) warm spring's blues all contain some green, don't they? That is a very pure blue, and looks winterish to me.

Reply
Marble Structures link
12/16/2023 03:12:50 am

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