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      • ♀ ♂ Ethereal Dramatic -- The Sorceress
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      • ♀ ♂ Ethereal Natural -- The Earth Goddess
      • ♀ ♂ Gamine Ingenue -- The Girlish Mod
      • ⚥ ♂ Natural Classic -- The Prep
      • ♂ ♂ Natural Gamine -- The Tomboy
      • ♀ ♂ Natural Ingenue -- The Outdoorsy Sweetheart
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      • ♀ ♂ Romantic Dramatic -- The Vamp
      • ♀ ♀ Romantic Ethereal -- Aphrodite
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    • Blends of 2 types
      • ⚥ ♂ Classic Gamine -- The Prep Schooler
      • ⚥ ♀ Classic Ingenue -- The Class President
      • ⚥ ♂ Dramatic Classic -- The Art Critic
      • ♂ ♂ Dramatic Gamine -- The Punk Rocker
      • ♀ ♂ Dramatic Ingenue -- The Childlike Czarina
      • ♂ ♂ Dramatic Natural -- The Amazon Queen
      • ⚥ ♀ Ethereal Classic -- The Delicate Sophisticate
      • ♀ ♂ Ethereal Dramatic -- The Sorceress
      • ♀ ♂ Ethereal Gamine -- The Sprite
      • ♀ ♀ Ethereal Ingenue -- The Fairy
      • ♀ ♂ Ethereal Natural -- The Earth Goddess
      • ♀ ♂ Gamine Ingenue -- The Girlish Mod
      • ⚥ ♂ Natural Classic -- The Prep
      • ♂ ♂ Natural Gamine -- The Tomboy
      • ♀ ♂ Natural Ingenue -- The Outdoorsy Sweetheart
      • ⚥ ♀ Romantic Classic -- The Sexy Sophisticate
      • ♀ ♂ Romantic Dramatic -- The Vamp
      • ♀ ♀ Romantic Ethereal -- Aphrodite
      • ♀ ♂ Romantic Gamine -- The Firecracker
      • ♀ ♀ Romantic Ingenue -- The Demure Seductress
      • ♀ ♂ Romantic Natural -- The Babe Next Door
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Truth is Beauty 

What Do True (Cool) Summers Really Look Like?

8/5/2019

7 Comments

 
I haven't found a more comprehensive gallery of real-life True Summers than this one, on Elea Blake Cosmetic Studio's Facebook page. 

Personal color systems other than the 12-tone system  usually rely on hair and eye color to determine your color palette. These systems tend to incorrectly type light-eyed, fair-haired women as Summers, even when they're not. And they tend to to ignore the possibility that women with darker hair and eyes can be Summers. 

A quick glance through Elea Blake's True Summer album will give you a snapshot of what True Summers really look like. It's a varied picture!

You'll see loads of brunettes. You'll see women with red hair,  brown eyes, freckles, and other features that you don't think of when you think of True Summer. You'll see women of color who would surely be mistyped as Dark Autumn or Dark Winter in most other color systems.

In the 12-tone system, all that matters is which colors best complement you-- and that's determined by your skin's undertones.  That's the correct way to determine your best colors.

If you're not sure of your color season, consider trying the Truth is Beauty Color Analysis Quiz. When you know your color season, you can stop buying the wrong makeup because makeup that matches your color palette also complements your skin. 

Here's to really seeing ourselves.  Truth is beauty!
A version of this post ran in July of 2011. â€‹
7 Comments

True, Soft, or Light Summer? Kristen Stewart and Emily Blunt.

5/20/2019

61 Comments

 
A reader asks, "There are a lot of nuances between Soft Summer and True Summer. How do you know that Kristen Stewart is Soft Summer and Emily Blunt is a True Summer?"
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This is a really good question.

I often find Summer celebs difficult to narrow down into subseasons - perhaps because the differences in the muted colors of Summer are harder to discern on a computer screen than the differences in the vivid colors of Spring or Winter.

But after a lot of thought, I eventually came to the conclusion that Kristen's a Soft Summer and Emily's a True Summer.
I'll describe my thought process:

To my eye, both look obviously coolish, but not particularly saturated. Cool and muted is Summer.

But my first impression might be wrong. To determine season, we can't rely on what a person looks like; we have to examine how a person looks in certain colors. So I'll check the other seasons.

Could either woman be a Winter?

Well, both are clearly overwhelmed by black.  That rules out all three Winters.

NOT WINTER

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Notice how the black jacket and black eyeliner jump out at you. That's because they're more saturated than she is. More saturated colors appear closer than less saturated colors.
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Ohh, really not good. Kristen's healthy skin tone is lost here.

WINTER

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Compare this pic of Winter Mary Louise Parker. Notice how her eyes are just as intense as her black top. She's a Winter, and not overwhelmed by black.
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Winter Taylor Cole balances black, instead of being overwhelmed by it.
I do make note of the fact that Emily is less overwhelmed by black than Kristen. So I think perhaps Emily has a higher natural saturation.

How about Autumn?

Hmm. I think both are meh in Autumn colors. 

NOT AUTUMN

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Next to this rich, warm background color, Emily's lovely, porcelain skin looks a little muddy.
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The warm makeup on Kristen seems to be sitting on her face instead of emanating from it. And the orange around her eyes especially seems wrong; it reads like discoloration.

AUTUMN

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Against a similarly warm background, Autumn Eva Longoria just looks like herself.
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This is Autumn makeup that looks like it's emanating from the skin. It's applied heavily, yet the colors are still harmonious with Noa Tishby.
Notice, though, that Kristen is almost pulling off Autumn color, while Emily isn't at all. So I'm thinking Kristen has more Autumn-like warmth than Emily.

Spring: Testing Spring will be tough, because it's very difficult to find either woman in sure-fire Spring colors like peach, lime, or sunny yellow. So I need to test Spring for them in another way.

I've already seen that both women are overwhelmed by black, so Bright Spring's unlikely for either one. (Black alone is not a great look for Bright Spring, but it's not so much overwhelming as it is boring.)

How can I test Light Spring and True Spring? Hmm... Well, neither woman is a convincing blonde, to my eye. Most "blonde" True and Light Spring celebs are actually brunettes, but they do typically make convincing blondes. Yellow is Spring's soul color, so it makes sense that yellow hair would work on Springs.

Yellow hair is clearly not right for these two women, though.

NOT SPRING

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Yellow hair on Kristen seems wrong. Most Hollywood blonde is artificial, but this blonde reads as particularly unnatural because it doesn't harmonize with Kristen's skin.
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Yellow hair on Emily seems to diminish her rather than bring her to life.

SPRING

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Blake Lively's also a natural brunette (see those roots), but because she's a Spring she can pull off yellow hair. See the light golden highlights in her skin that the yellow hair picks up.
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Another naturally brown-haired Spring who's enlivened by blonde hair. With yellow hair, Cat Deeley's face shows a subtle variation in color that signifies health, instead of uniform pallor.
 So I think my initial idea was correct: both women are Summers.

But what kind of Summer - Light, Soft, or True?

I'm thinking Light Summer is unlikely for Emily, for the same reason I think Spring is unlikely: I don't find her a convincing blonde. Light Summers can often pull off blonde pretty well. Their palette contains many lovely light yellows, so this makes sense.

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Laura Linney
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Naomi Watts
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Elisha Cuthbert
You can tell from their roots that these Light Summers are brunettes, but blonde looks appropriate on them.

Again, Emily Blunt with blonde hair: not her best.
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On Light Summers, yellow hair can emphasize the delicacy of their coloring; Emily's skin seems to be calling for more depth.

So, Soft or True for Emily perhaps?

In weighing these two seasons, I think about how Emily often wears super-bright colors that look a little but not a lot overwhelming. Here she is in some high-sat choices:
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I notice that she can tolerate some brightness of color.  In these two pics, she's certainly farther away than the color - but not miles farther away.

So, of Soft and True Summer, I think True Summer  - the more saturated of the two seasons - is right for Emily Blunt.

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Yes. I like her in these purely cool, somewhat muted colors.  They certainly don't look muted next to Emily Blunt - they're exactly the right saturation for her.


With Kristen Stewart, one of the things I notice is that neutral-warm colors aren't awful on her.
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On the left, the eyeshadow is warmish, and in this pic it's not glaringly disharmonious. (The skin might appear more even with a cooler shade, but as-is, it's not so bad.) On the right, I could almost believe her as an Autumn.

So I suspect True Summer, which is purely cool, is unlikely for her.

I already decided that a big block of yellow next to Kristen's face was not her best, so that makes Light Summer seem unlikely as well.
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Yellow next to her face = not so great. Light Summer's unlikely.
That leaves Soft Summer.

Does Soft Summer make sense for her?

Well, Soft Summer's TMIT is softness or mutedness of color. Is Kristen awesome in very muted tones?

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Yes, I think. The more subtly colored her makeup and clothes are, the better she looks. She seems so natural in very, very soft shades.
Is she overwhelmed by very saturated colors?

Oh yeah.
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Overwhelmed by too-saturated color.
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Too, too bright for Kristen.
So, I say Soft Summer for Kristen Stewart.
Let's see her against a Soft Summer palette.
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Oh, yes. I love this.





This post originally appeared in January of 2014. 
61 Comments

Find your Best Lip Colors

3/4/2019

21 Comments

 
Last week I talked about the fact that, though all of your palette colors are gorgeous on you somewhere, they don't all look natural on your lips. 

Now I want to describe a good way to figure out which of your palette colors are best on your lips. 

In a nutshell, the colors that will look most natural on your lips are
 - your MLBB,
- darker versions of your MLBB, and
- a handful of colors very close in hue and value to these

Your MLBB is your "my lip but better" lip color. You may already have a lippy in your stash that you know is your MLBB. If you don't, stand in front of a mirror with your palette and locate the peach, pink, red, or violet that is precisely as dark as your lip and the closest to it in warmth or coolness. (Your natural lip color will be less saturated than any  of these palettte colors; you're basically finding the more saturated version of your natural lip.) 

A lippy that's an  MLBB will always look natural on you. Additionally, colors that are the same hue as your MLBB but darker will also look natural on you. Going very dark within your MLBB hue might be your evening lip, but it won't look unnatural.

In general, avoid opaque colors that are lighter than than your MLBB. This usually looks unnaatural. 

The other colors that will look most natural on your lips will be the colors closest in hue to your MLBB, and as dark or darker.  So if you're a Bright Spring whose MLBB is on your fuchsia strip, you may indeed be able to wear one of Bright Spring's violets as a lippy; the violets are close in hue to the fuchsias. You will find less luck with one of BSp's orange lippies, because orange is pretty far  from fuchsia. 
My MLBB is a neutral Soft Autumn pink that's medium-dark.  I'll wear other pinks and reds that are very close to this color in hue, but I won't go all the way to a Soft Autumn brown -- even though those lippies exist.
​Also, I'll go darker than my MLBB, but not lighter. 
​A lippie lighter in than your natural lip rarely looks natural. 
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This pink is beautiful on me in a dress, or as lingerie, but it looks weird as an opaque lippy, because it's much lighter than my natural lip.
If a lippy matches one of the pinks or peaches that's lighter than my MLBB, I'll only buy it as a balm or gloss; anything lighter that's also opaque looks a little strange on me. ​​​
Tarte Quench Lip Rescue in Nude is an MLBB for me. It's easy to throw on when I want some moisture but I don't feel like bothering too much with makeup.

CoverGirl Outlast in Wine to Five is a slightly darker version of my MLBB. It's been my staple daytime lippy for about five years; I order it in bulk on eBay or Amazon. 

My sexy lippy these days is Tarte Tarteist in Bling, which is a very deep version of my MLBB. It's a Soft Autumn red lip -- which means it's striking on me, and would be rather blah on most other seasons.  :-)

Though they vary quite a bit in value, all three of these lippies are similar in hue.
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If I feel like it, I''ll go somewhat warmer or somewhat cooler within my palette. But I won't stray super-far from this central MLBB hue, and I won't go lighter in value, unless it's a gloss.

And this is what I recommend you do as well:
Find the hue that looks most natural on your lips, and choose lippies that stay relatively close to that hue.

For example, if your MLBB is an orange, experiment with your reds -- but don't stray all the way to a violet, unless you  want to make a statement.  :-) 

And if your MLBB is a violet, experiment with your reds and purples -- but don't stray all the way to orange.

When you know your  MLBB, use your seasonal makeup list and a computer to find the lippies from the list that will look the most natural on your face.

(Computer images aren't completely color-accurate, but you don't need them to be if you have the seasonal makeup list; if it's on the list, it's a color from your season.)

Just check the computer image to make sure the hue and value of the lippy seem right for your lips. Then buy it! 




​
This post was originally published in March of 2017. 
21 Comments

Can't I Wear All of  My Colors on My Lips?

2/25/2019

43 Comments

 
In seasonal discussion groups, women spend a lot of time working out which palettte-matching lipsticks and glosses are their best colors.

Why should they have to spend time answering this question? Aren't all of the peaches, pinks, reds and violets in your palette automatically good lip colors for you?

Not exactly.

Every color in your palette is a color that harmonizes with your natural coloring somehow. 

But not every color will actually look good on your lips. 
​
Your right colors look right because they look natural. So if you wear them in an unnatural way, they won't look right.

​Consider my Soft Autumn palette:
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All of these colors look amazing on me. But not every one of these colors would look natural on my lips. 

Would I wear the greens or blues on my lips? No way.  It would look completely unnatural. That goes without saying, right?
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I also woudn't wear one of my neutrals on my lips. None of them looks natural on my face. 

​This brown, for example, is one of my favorite colors for pants. But you can see it doesn't belong on my lips. It's unnatural for that part of my body, and so it looks bleh.
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So far, these decisions seem self-evident. But let's move around the wheel into the range where we expect to find our lip colors: the purples, pinks, peaches and reds.

​Here's me wearing one of my dark purple-browns as a lippie:
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This color, though gorgeous on me as an evening gown, still isn't natural  on my lips... despite the fact that I can find lippies in the drugstore that swatch this color. Now, if I want to make a statement with my lippy, this could be a good choice for me... but most of the time, I just want to look like the most beautiful verison of myself. And this lippy's not helping me do that. 
​Now, this pink isn't that far from the unnatural purple-brown -- yet it's great! Now we're finaly into the section of the Soft Autumn palette that actually looks natural on my lips.
​
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Every peach, pink, red and purple in your palette looks natural on you somewhere.

But not every peach, pink, red and purple  in your palette looks natural on your lips. 

This is where many of us -- Winters and Bright Springs in particular -- can get lost. 

For example, there are plenty of lipsticks that match Bright Spring's violets. 
​

But a Bright Spring who expects a BSp violet lippy to look natural on her lips may be disappointed.  (Soft Autumn's dark purple sure doesn't look natural on my lips!)
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The peaches, pinks, reds and purples in your palette that will look natural on your mouth are a smaller subset of your total set of peaches, pinks, reds and purples.  

​It can be tough to know where the line is.

My unnatural-looking brownish- purple isn't really that far away from my natural-looking  pink: 
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So you're probably wondering, "How can I know which of my peaches, pinks, reds and purples will actually look natural on my lips?"

It's not too difficult. This post is getting long, so I'll publish the second half, in which I describe how to find the best colors for your lips, next week.  :-)



​
This post was originally published in February of 2017.

43 Comments

Surprising Seasonal Deal-Breakers

1/14/2019

64 Comments

 

Not all of the colors in your correct seasonal palette will be your absolute favorites.

Depending on your depth of coloring, your level of contrast, and the specific colors of  your body, some will be more useful to you than others, and in different ways.

A dark-skinned Winter, for example, might use black as an accent, while a fair-skinned Winter might wear it in large blocks.


But no color in your palette will be awful on you.  The colors in your palette are all harmonious with each other, and if it's your proper palette, they'll all be harmonious with you too.

So for those of you still searching for your season, I give you colors that are seasonal deal-breakers.

If the given color absolutely doesn't work for you, the deal's off. Move this season to the end of the list.

You can't use this list to identify your single best season. But you can use it to rule seasons out.



If you can't rock hot pink, rule out Bright Spring.
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Ni Ni
Bright Spring has a handful of pinks in this general vicinity.  You may not associate pink with Spring. But moving Spring reds toward Winter means making them both darker and brighter. Reds that are both deep and very bright are purple-reds. So in Bright Spring, we find hot pinks.
If you think you're a Spring but hot pink is no good for you, True Spring may be your home.



If you're not fabulous in lime green, rule out Bright Winter.
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Alek Wek
Taking True Winter's greens lighter and brighter, all the way into Bright Winter, moves them toward yellow. One of the results is a sort of fluorescent lime. On Bright Winters, this color is amazing. It contrasts beautifully with both very dark and very light skin.

If this color's not right for you, but you think you're a Winter, try Dark Winter next.


If you can't wear clear lemon yellow, rule out True Winter.
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Michelle WIlliams
Be careful applying this one. I'm not talking about a golden yellow, or a pastel yellow, or a yellow-orange. True Winter's few yellows don't show a bit of brown or orange  or grey. They're the pure, clear complements of TW's vivid sapphire blues.

If you need a more moderated yellow that's still vivid, try Dark Winter.


If you don't look great in mint green, rule out True Summer.
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Isabeli Fontana
A handful of the seasons have some sort of mint. True Summer's is not a pure, saturated mint that's close to aqua. Instead it's a delicate and slightly hazy mint. It's lovely with a delicate fuchsia lip.

If this feels all wrong to you, perhaps vivid mint is beter? You might be a Winter.


If you wouldn't call your good yellow "goldenrod," rule out Dark Winter.

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Penelope Cruz
Dark Winter yellows are tricky. They're not clear and pure like True Winter's. They're not blindingly bright. They're just slightly warmed, a little rich - but not Autumn rich. Penelope Cruz is lovely here in what looks like one of Dark Winter's elusive yellows.

If you need your yellows purer, try one of the other Winters. And if you need a more delicate yellow, try one of the Summers.

If you can't wear this medium warmed violet, rule out Dark Autumn.
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Natalie Portman
This Dark Autumn color always surprises me. Call it orchid or begonia perhaps. It's not a color I would label Dark Autumn if I saw it in a pile of a hundred other colors. Yet it's gorgeous with the intense dark olives and vivid teals of the season.

Dark Autumn Natalie Portman's been photographed in three or four dresses in something like this color. They're all great on her. If it's not great on you, perhaps try True Autumn or Bright Spring.



If a light olive-khaki is not a good neutral for you, rule out Light Spring.

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Elizabeth Banks
Was it Christine Scaman who said Light Spring colors are popsicle colors? It's true. But every season has neutrals, of course. This unusual Light Spring color is like your usual khaki, but with a suggestion of green and gold. On a Light Spring, it may pick up tones in the eye or hair.

If this color's a no-go on you, perhaps look at Light Summer instead.


If you're not flattered by light pinky coral, rule out Light Summer.
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Naomi Watts
Light Summer doesn't get very warm, but in the pinks it does go as far as a pinky coral. It's a bit pinker than what you see here, but still warmish. On a Light Summer it picks up healthy color in the face.

If you think you're a Summer but can't wear this light, delicate, warm tone, look at True Summer.

If you're not beautiful in bright blue, rule out True Spring.
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Nicole Kidman
True Spring's colors are Crayola colors. You can see them in this picture of Nicole Kidman: blue dress, yellow hair, red-orange lips.  In these simple primaries, True Spring is gorgeous.

If you struggle to articulate the names of your best colors, they're not True Spring's. You might consider Summer or Autumn. 


If rich burgundy isn't gorgeous on you, rule out True Autumn.
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Noa Tishby
True Autumn has a few beautiful burgundies that go beautifully with the rich greens and oranges of the season. You can see all those colors here, in Noa Tishby's face.
Those burgundies make good lippies too.

If this burgundy overwhelms you, try something from Soft Autumn.


If you're not lovely in cocoa brown, rule out Soft Summer

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Adriana Lima
This is not a warm golden brown or a milk chocolate brown. If you're a Summer, none of those browns will work for you. Browns are generally bad for Summers, as a rule. But if you're a Soft Summer, you will be lovely in cocoa brown. It's a brown that looks both slightly greyed and slightly purpled. It may pick up tones in your hair.

If this color just isn't right for you, try True Summer next.



If you can't do dusty medium blue, you're not a Soft Autumn.
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Natascha McElhone
This blue feels both rich and muted, and quite medium - neiher purpley nor greenish. I's similar to the color you get if you Google "French blue."

Though it's a subtle color, on Soft Autumn skin it's just as powerful as it needs to be. Notice how rich it looks on Natascha McElhone.

If you need a blue that's much richer than this, you might try a Winter or a Spring.
   *             *              *
For any of these seasons, Google the season's name in quotes to see images of the palette. Images that say "Sci/Art" are usually quite accurate. Or order sheets of color from all 12 seasons to try the seasons out in person.

As always, I hope this helps you find your correct season.  :-)


This post first ran in April of 2013. 
64 Comments

True Winter Makeup Word Cloud

10/29/2018

19 Comments

 
​
Every product on the True Winter makeup list has been swatched to match a color-accurate True Winter palette book. 
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If you're a True Winter, these are your best makeup colors. They look natural and healthy on your skin. 
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​These colors are very vivid and very cold (bluish).  Even the yellows are as cold as yellow can be -- you can't detect a bit of orange. 
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​On the makeup list, which has over 400 precisely matched products, you tend to see the same color names appear over and over. That happens on every list, because each color season represents a very specific section of color space.

Here are the most frequently-occurring color words on the True Winter makeup list:
​
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​Last week I said I love Dark Autumn because it's so complex. This week I find myself thinking that I love True Winter because it's so focused!  (I guess I love all 12 palettes.  :-) ) 



Black, plum, red, pink, blue, berry. That's True Winter, all right.  
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Above, compare True Winter, which is in the center, to True Summer on the left.  They're both cool-toned, but see how important grey is for True Summer, while black is True Winter's biggest makeup neutral.  Red is also very important for True Winter, but only shows up for True Summers as shades of berry. 

Also, compare True Winter to Dark Winter, on the right. Notice how Dark Winter stays intense, but brings in warmth with colors like brown, chocolate, moss, coral, and cinnamon. 
On True Winter skin, this makeup doesn't look shocking or extreme; it looks natural and healthy. Looking at these faces, you'd never guess how saturated and cold the makeup appears on a piece of white paper. 
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If you're not sure of your color season, consider trying the home draping cards. 

19 Comments

Soft Summer Makeup Word Cloud

10/1/2018

20 Comments

 
If you've been following my blog recently, you know I'm trying to complete my series on color words in the 12 makeup palettes.

Last week, I wrote about True Summer's makeup, which is somewhat light, a bit faded, and very, very cool-toned.

This week, I'm writing about True Summer's neighbor, Soft Summer.

As we move from True Summer to Soft Summer, our colors become

 - a bit more dark,
 - even more faded,
- and a bit warmer.

Soft Summer's colors are still light, cool, and soft relative to the other seasons, because Soft Summer is Summer first and foremost. 

Soft Summer and Light Summer, its near-neighbor on the other side of True Summer,  have in common that neither palette, unlike True Summer, is completely cool; Light Summer adds a bit of Spring's clear warmth to its palette, and Soft Summer adds a bit of Autumn's toasty warmth. 

​The Soft Summer makeup list currently has about 650 products on it, every one of which has been matched to original the Sci/Art Soft Summer palette.  
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(You'll find many versions of the Soft Summer palette online, but only those that derive from Sci/Art palettes are truly accurate.)
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​Here are the color words that appear most frequently on the Soft Summer makeup list. 
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I'm not surprised to see pink appear so often: pink is light, cool red, and as such it is a defining color of all three light, cool seasons.  And rose is just a synonym for pink.

But notice the supplemental colors: brown, plum, mauve.  The importance of these colors to a Soft Summer's makeup reflects this woman's need for slightly deeper and warmer colors on her face.

If you look at the less-frequently-appearing color names, you'll see some that hint at Soft Summer's move toward Autumn richness: bronze, moss, spice.

Compare the warm colors in Soft Summer's makeup to the warm colors in Light Summer's makeup. Both Summer subtypes have a touch of warmth, but Soft Summer's hint of warmth is deep and rich, while Light Summer's warmth is light and bright: peach, floral, and flamingo. 
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Soft Summer on the left, Light Summer on the right.
It's also interesting to compare Soft Summer to its lighter, cooler neighbor, True Summer. Blue, the coldest hue, is more important for True Summer. Brown, which is warm, is much more important for Soft Summer. 
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Soft Summer on the left, True Summer on the right. 
Soft Summer women can have any hair color, any eye color, and any apparent skin tone, but they are united by the fact that their best colors are mostly (but not completely) cool, a bit (but not a lot) on the light side, and very, very faded. These are cool pastels that are smudgy and smoky. 
Check out Soft Summers Leona Lewis, Carmen Electra, Emma Roberts, and Emilia Clarke looking like the most beautiful versions of themselves. No masks here. 
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If this makeup is your makeup, you may be a Soft Summer. You might consider trying the Soft Summer makeup list; compared to expensive in-person color draping, the list is a steal at $15.  It could confirm your season.
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You might also consider home draping cards; they are Sci/Art color-accurate, and at $24 or $48, much more affordable than in-person draping (which costs hundreds.) 
20 Comments

True Summer Makeup Word Cloud

9/24/2018

13 Comments

 
The True Summer (a.k.a. Cool Summer) makeup list has almost 800 products on it that have been precisely matched to original Sci/Art True Summer colors. 

​(For those of you just joining us, if you're a True Summer, the colors in your True Summer palette are your most beautiful makeup colors.) 
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In terms of hue, value, and chroma, True Summer's colors, and therefore its makeup products, are 

 - very cool (appearing blue-toned)
 - somewhat more light than dark
-  somewhat faded


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​When you look at a list of makeup products that all match a very defined palette, you start to see certain color words over and over again.  Let's look at the list of ~800 products that match the True Summer palette, and see which color words appear the most often.
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Pink, blue, and grey.  That pretty much sums up True Summer, actually. 
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​Here's True Summer's makeup word cloud next to Light Summer's makeup word cloud, which I talked about last week:
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Pink is super-important for True Summer, as it is for Light Summer. But as we move from Light Summer into True Summer, the colors become both cooler and darker. The increase in coolness explains why blue and grey suddenly become much more important, while brown almost disappears; the increase in darkness explains why plum is now making a huge showing. 

While we're on the subject of darker colors, you may be wondering why "black" appears in any True Summer makeup names, since True Summer technically does not contain black in its palette. (And True Summers are overwhelmed by black.) In the True Summer makeup list, you see "black" appear as a modifier indicating a darker shade: for example, Estee Lauder's Black Plum eyeliner, or CoverGirl's Black Sapphire mascara. True Summer neutrals don't go as dark as pure black, but True Summer does have some deep blues, purples, charcoals and purple-browns.  (By contrast, there's no Light Summer makeup color that could be described as "black" anything.)

Here are  True Summers Ashley Green and Georgina Chapman in makeup that's great for their season. 
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If you're a confirmed or suspected True Summer, do you recognize your best makeup in these color names? Share in the comments!

(If you don't know your color season, consider trying the at-home draping cards.)
13 Comments

Color Analysis: Mad Men

4/23/2018

59 Comments

 
Yes, I know I'm late to this party! But I don't have network TV, and I have two kids. I'm just now catching up with the rest of the world TV-wise.

Anyway, here are the color seasons of several of the actors on Mad Men, as best I can tell.

Elisabeth Moss: True Summer
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Her best colors aren't particularly dark, but they're very cool. Soft Summer is also a possibility for her, but what really convinced me of True Summer was seeing how pink her lipstick can get. The pinker it is, the prettier she looks. Most seasons can't wear those super-pink lippies.


Jon Hamm: Dark Winter
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His best colors are certainly cool, and quite dark. They're not vivid enough to be Bright Winter colors, and they have the "sooty" quality (as Christine Scaman puts it) that characterizes Dark Winter colors. 

January Jones: Light Spring
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Her best colors are warm, clear, and rather light and delicate. I don't think True Spring is impossible for her, but I think it's unlikely; it's telling to me that her very worst colors are dark (remember when Betty dyed her hair black?) I also find some colors to be too clear and warm for her; pure orange and bright red are not great.


Jessica Pare: Bright Spring
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This woman was obviously a Bright from her first moment on screen. I decided on Bright Spring rather than Bright Winter because so many warm, clear colors are glorious on her, and because too-cool colors can make her look a bit goth.

I love how often she's costumed in her best colors. It's a joy to behold.

​
Linda Cardellini: True Winter
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What a gorgeous example of a True Winter. The way black, white and grey make this skin look amazing -- it's just beautiful. 



Although I know it will disappoint some people, I have to say that I can't accurately type Christina Hendricks.  :-(

You might be thinking, "She's obviously a Bright, or a True Spring!"  But don't let yourself get distracted by the colors she's costumed in as Joan  -- they're generally very bright colors, but they're also brighter than she is. 

​Your best colors should let us see you; Joan's colors force us to just see lips, hair, and curves. 

​Which is probably the point.: the colors make her into a cartoon.
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 I suspect that, IRL, Christina Hendricks is probably a Soft Autumn, or just maybe a True Autumn; warmth seems to be good for her, but she needs less saturation than she's given on Mad Men. 

What do you think? Any ideas about Christina Hendricks' color season? Do you think I've missed the mark on any of the other characters? Let me know!
59 Comments

True Summer Yellows and Light Summer Yellows

11/20/2017

28 Comments

 
I think a great way to distinguish a True Summer palette from a Light Summer palette is by using the yellows. 

True Summer gets almost no yellows; the yellows it does get are pale and dusty but also totally cool -- like lemon chalk.

True Summer yellows are elusive in fabrics, so a typical True Summer almost never finds a yellow that looks good on her and thinks it's one of her worst colors.  

Light Summer, though, can handle a range of cheerful, buttery yellows. On a Light Summer, yellow often picks up yellow in the hair or in the eye. 

This difference  is part of the reason why Light Summers are often convincing blondes but True Summers seldom are. Blonde hair is essentially a big swatch of yellow hovering around one's face, you know?


If you're not sure of your season, try at-home draping. 
28 Comments

Last but Not Least: True Summer Lippies

10/16/2012

0 Comments

 
The last of 12 - finally!  Scroll down and click through older posts to see the recs for the other 11 seasons.



All the lippies on the list are recommendations from the women of the 12 Blueprints Facebook Page, Christine Scaman of 12 Blueprints, Mary Steele of Luminosity, or my own swatching. 

If you're a True Summer, you'll look natural in almost all of these colors, and
be able to use them as blush as well, if you do that. (I do.)

A few of these shades may seem less than perfect for your individual face. Not all True Summers wear the same colors on their face equally well, because of individual
variation in the way the palette colors manifest themselves in your bodies.

Many of these colors will be discontinued, but you can often still find them on
eBay.

"Try before you buy" is prudent advice. But I
personally buy Soft Autumn - recommended colors sight-unseen all the time, and
I'm rarely let down.

Please do share additional recs in the comments section.  :-)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
 
Aveda
Lipstick in Sugar Apple


Beauty
By Jeunique Lipliner in Pink Velvet


Bobbi
Brown Blue Raspberry


Burt's
Bee's lip shimmer in Watermelon


Clinique
gloss in Bonfire


Clinique
Stellar Plum Gloss


Covergirl
565 Rose Cashmere


Covergirl
Nature Luxe 205 Tulip

Covergirl Outlast All-Day Lipcolor: Blossom


Covergirl
Outlast All-Day Lipcolor: Pink Delight


Covergirl
Outlast Double Lipshine: Party Pink


Dior
lipstick in Fantastic Plum


Estee
lauder Stay Plumberry


Girlactik
gloss in Smooch


Lancôme
lipstick in Provocative


Laura
Mercier Healthy Lips


L'Oreal
Color Rich Serum in Freshly Mauve


L'Oreal
Glam Shine 6H in Always Pink


L'Oreal
Glam Shine Shine Reflexion in Sheer Watermelon


MAC
Crème de la Femme


MAC
New York Apple


MAC
Plumful (or TW?)


MAC
Sweetie


MAC
Total Wow


MAC
Up the Amp


MAC
Viva Glam Cyndi


MAC
Viva Glam Gaga


MAC
Viva Glam IV (also recommended for TW)


Maybelline
Color Sensation Bit of Berry


Maybelline
Color Sensation Mauve Me


Maybelline
Color Sensational in Pink Petal


Maybelline
Color Sensational in Stellar Berry


Maybelline
Colorstay Pearl


Maybelline
Colorstay Raspberry


Maybelline
Colorstay Ruby


Maybelline
SS lipgloss Glass Rose


Maybelline
Superstay 24 Blush On 105


Maybelline
Superstay 24 On and On Orchid 70


Maybelline
Superstay 24 Very Cranberry 100


Maybelline
Wildberry


Maybelline
Yummy Plummy


Nivea
Volume Shine in Berry Jelly


NYC
404B AirKiss


NYX
Narcissus


NYX
Strawberry Milk


Revlon
Berry Haute


Revlon
ColorBurst Lipstick Lilac


Revlon
Colorburst Raspberry


Revlon
Colorstay Overtime Sheer 850 Sheer Pomegranate


Revlon
Mineralglaze Infinite Rose (may lean warm)


Revlon
Pink Pout


Rimmel
110 Kiss & Stay First Kiss


Rimmel
140 Kiss & Stay Forever Rose


Rimmel
Drops of Sherry


Rimmel
Lasting Finish Dizzy


Rimmel
Lasting Finish Heavenly


Rimmel
London Pink Champagne


Rimmel
Pink Blush


Sephora
Violet Party 06


Smashbox
Photo Finish Lipstick in Pout


YsL
No. 7 Rouge Volupte Lingerie Pink


  


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


0 Comments
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    About Me...

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    I'm a Soft Autumn and an Ethereal Natural. Find out ​your color season and  
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"My closet has totally transformed into something I like, but don't think about much. How amazing is that? I just walk in, grab something for the occasion and the weather, and go. Because it's all the same color season, it all blends. Because it's all the right style (my style, so who cares if it's 'in'? It looks good on me) I can rest assured it looks about right. It's really amazing.

"I waste a lot less time and money now with shopping. I can walk into a store and rule out 90% of the inventory. I now try things I never would have dared and happily pass over things I used to think I had to have. Shopping is just a hunt now, not a source of guilt. I feel like I'm a lot less wasteful and more mindful this way."
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