Discover your color palette and your style type.

Finding Your Best Colors as a Classic

12/9/2019

Every color in your seasonal palette looks beautiful next to your skin. But two women who are the same season might wear their palettes very differently, partly because of unique aspects of their coloring, and partly because of their style types.

If your style type is predominantly Classic, which colors in your palette should you focus on?

Classic is all about tasteful understatement. Because color makes a such a huge impression on the eye, a Classic will always want her colors to be toned down. The only aspects of a Classic look that are showy are the details one has to look closely to notice, such as fine tailoring, a discreet designer monogram, or an expensive fabric.

So your go-to colors will be "office colors" -- your blacks, your whites, your greys, your browns, your navies, and perhaps your darker greens.

Your use of color, even if it's monochromatic or highly contrasting neutrals, should never feel aggressive; it should always feel understated. (If your use of color feels intimidating; you're veering into Dramatic territory.)

When you combine colors, the effect should always feel coordinated. The viewer should be able to image the items were purchased as a set.

As a Classic or Classic blend, you might use other colors in your palette successfully; the guiding question should be whether the color stands out or blends in. (You're aiming for the latter.)

The way purple is used here makes it feel like a neutral, so the look works as a Classic look.

Normally, red isn't a go-to Classic color. But here, the red reads as part of a red-white-and-blue color scheme, which is a very traditional (and therefore Classic) color scheme.

Are you a Classic or a Classic blend? How do you use the colors in your palette? Please share in the comments!

If you're not sure of your style type, try the Style ID Calculator!

30 Comments

Jonna

12/10/2019 10:13:54 am

This series is amazing! Thank you for the clarification on how to best use our palettes to coordinate with our style type. Can't wait to read the remaining three!

Color Novice

12/11/2019 09:27:48 am

Hi
Is there some kind soul out there who can explain to me the difference between a Classic monochromatic and a Dramatic Monochromatic look? I can see the difference in real life, and understand the difference between understated(Classic) and theatrical(Dramatic) but putting it into words what the difference is and where the (blurry) line is can be tricky. (Especially since I am a visual, not a word - person). Since I am a DA, my "whitest white" is a light beige/darker ivory, and that should read as dramatic on me... or should it, since it is so soft compared to other seasons´ whitest white? I have an EDC style-id, so you could argue it isn´t relevant to look at, but it would still be nice to know how to balance the essences when one is overrepresented. Any ideas? :)

Ignacia

12/11/2019 03:51:15 pm

I suspect that's were line and other factors become important too. An all white outfit that's more structured, with long lines and stiff fabrics, would read as very dramatic; all white with more conservative pieces, will read as classic; and all white with light flowing fabrics will read more ethereal. I imagine that color, by itself, isn't enough to express your style type, but it helps to add more dimensions to your look.

For instance, when planning an outfit, a Dramatic Gamine could choose pieces that are just Gamine in line but, by wearing them in a monochromatic look, she would be able to also address the Dramatic essence in her.

So for an EDC, I think an all white look could just look very fitting, even if it's not clear which specific essence the white is "helping". Perhaps for you it just means that your version of white is an specially flattering color. If I were you, I would try an all white look to check. :)

Melina

12/12/2019 10:32:01 am

You gave very insightful advice above, and sorry for butting in, but a question just occurred to me - what if all white does not suit the person at all, what would that signify (if anything)..? As I really cannot do it - all black is marvellous, but all-white, there's just something so very off! Of course, it may just be I'm a Dark season (those seem indeed most likely for me, based on my colour reactions), but I'm certain I do have both E and D in my blend, so two of the ones named above... Though I thought D in a blend gives a tendency towards darker colours? (Comparing e.g. Rachel's REI and RDI boards - just one differing essence but the RDI one is SO much darker!)

12/12/2019 10:47:39 am

Thank you so much, that really makes a lot of sense :-D Looks like I have some experimentation to do *-:-)

12/12/2019 11:03:00 am

As for you, Melina, can I take a crack at it? There are two things I would like to know.
1. What do you understand to be "white"? As an example, the DA palette really doesn't have a white, per say, but more like a light beige or dark off-white/oyster as the lightest neutral, and therefore its version of white, and it is also a season that can wear black. DA peoples "worst enemy" is pure white, according to 12 Blueprints color theory. Could this possibly be the case? Try looking at the Dark Autumn palette and see if it resonates.
2. What color is your skin? If you have fair skin, light hair yet have a season that needs contrast, then maybe that could then be a problem. The white wohn't provide the needed contrast. If, however, your skin and hair is darker, but your season demands you avoid contrast then maybe white becomes more of a problem (although I lean more towards the first option here). Then the Etheral could come in with soft harminous color options and be harmonised by more Dramatic lines.
Does that sound useful?

12/12/2019 11:47:45 am

Thanks, Color Novice - and you don't sound like a total novice at all! :) You had good insights.

1. Yes, I know every season has their version of white, but I meant that any kind of all-white outfit looks off for me - including all-light beige (for DA) ;) I've been into seasonal colour for years, gone through all of the seasons, and I'm quite convinced now I'm either DW or DA - many things fit in both, but equally a few things don't, in both, so I seem to be some kind of blend of them, if that's possible.

2. Yes, this may indeed be the case - I mean I'm most likely a season that needs a fair amount of contrast. My skin is light-medium, so is my natural hair, so yes, that may be a big factor in why black is so much better for me, and all-white (any version of it) just doesn't provide enough contrast. I was just wondering if style ID plays a part in this too, and if so, how big ;) I'm quite positive I don't have any C, like you do, so I wonder if that could be the essence that makes white more flattering? In my view, white is quite Classic, but then again not exclusively.

12/12/2019 12:21:47 pm

Accidentally put the answer in the general thread, is typing on a phone :-/

12/13/2019 03:57:03 am

CN, that's fine! Hope you'll still find my answer here :)

In answer what you wrote below, I already have Rachel's colour draping cards, luckily got them a few years ago when she still offered posting out of North America (I'm in Europe). :) And they are one of the factors why I strongly believe I'm a Dark - DW and DA always end up best for me, both almost equally good, hard to tell which one's better. If the cards are really accurate, then that's what I am for sure, i.e. one of those.

And silly me, I just talked about my E and D, but forgot to mention my main essences, which are R and I. E and D are probably minor ones, but still important. :) (And there's probably nothing in R or I that would rule out an all-white outfit, so that wouldn't have affected the issue, anyway.) Very interesting observations also in your & W's comments below!

12/13/2019 04:06:50 am

Hi again.
Hmm, actually, that may have something to do with it.
I don´t think Ingenue is that much of a problem here, but Romantic might have something to do with it since Romantics best colors are the deepest jeweltones of their palettes, like deep blue, green, red and purple. They read as passionate and earthy in the right context. White, on the other hand, read as either chaste otherworldly and passionless, detached or intimidating, depending on context lines and detail, not passionate, and could possibly get in the way of the Romantic essence - UNLESS the color were used as a way to bring either Ethereal and Dramatic in an otherwise Romantic/Ingenue ensemble. I wouldn´t necessarily recommend it, though, if they are only minor influences. Color makes a huge impact on your first impression, after all. But maybe I am wrong hehe :)

12/13/2019 04:07:21 am

And now even my reply was positioned slightly out of place, but oh well ;D

12/13/2019 04:11:43 am

Ah, we were posting at the same time, i.e. your reply and my short comment above ;) Yes, I believe you are quite right about the Romantic affecting it, I didn't think about that!

12/13/2019 04:22:57 am

Glad that I could help! :D

If, however, someone knows I am wrong they are more than welcome to disagree with me, tweak my answer or correct me, I don´t want to confuse people with poor or incorrect information. (If I think I am right, however, be ready for a friendly debate! :P )

Lucky you, I am European too but when I found out about the cards she no longer offered postage to Europe (maybe there were too many complications).

12/12/2019 12:03:19 pm

Well, I still feel a bit new to this (Rachel has been a huge help) and for long I thought I was BS or SS before settling on DA (I didn't want to steal my friends season, odd thought I know) so I have a little practice discerning between difficult seasons (occassionally I wonder if I may be a DW since I appear to be cool, but is then reminded of the amount of brown and orchid colors that suit me and change my mind). Still no expert, though, but thank you for the compliment :-D
Uuuhh, interesting, then intimidating color contrast and flowy, Ethereal fabrics would probably be a huge hit with you, that gotta be beautiful :-o
I have medium-fair skin, "summery blue" eyes and dark brown hair with copper streaks, I wonder if that has something to do with the classic part :-P

12/12/2019 06:12:37 pm

Hi CN,

A thought in answer to your question about Classic vs. Dramatic -- I think a lot of classic colors consider *context* and appropriateness of a situation.

A few thoughts: classic ensembles might do monochrome, but I find they are rarely head-to-toe color. A navy suit will often have a different color shirt under it. A little black dress is *little* (so you're going to see some leg, and thus break up the block of black). Khakis and a red shirt is so... classic. And on and on. I think you get color blocking or monochrome, but in very expected and tasteful ways. We *know* these combos work because they do, in fact, work.

But then, I think of an all-white ensemble as SUPER dramatic (excepting brides, of course), because it's just so completely unexpected by most people in most situations. Sometimes you'll see it on a beach or resort, but otherwise, it's wildly impractical (especially in winter!) It's very much a LOOK AT ME! sort of statement. And that, I think, is why a strongly dramatic person like Cate Blanchett wears it all the time and looks fab.

I think light colors can also look ethereal, but that's when they're more muted and soft looking, like a cloud. Often, they're done with analogous colors like blue or grey. But if it's one unending block of all white, it's pretty dramatic, imo. And I think all black is done so often, it frequently can read more classic than dramatic. I think you have to really push the fabric or cut on an outfit to get the OOMPH you need to dramatize an all black outfit (my thoughts, anyhow).

Re: color -- I think the only way you can really determine color is by draping. Features won't help at all. There are just too many subtle factors. Rachel used to have home draping cards -- I don't know if she's bringing them back, but they helped me determine my colors. Another thought is have you checked out the 12Blueprints blog? Christine Scaman has some really useful posts about where and how to find colors to try draping yourself.

I hope that helps! Best of luck!

12/13/2019 02:49:16 am

Hi W.

In terms of appropriateness, which was quite helpful, I think you are right, and it echoes the points of this article very well - white color out of an "appropriate context" reads as theatrical and attention-getting, very dramatic indeed. I still find Ignacia was very helpful in the sense that what is the most influencial in this regard is how you structure and detail the monochromatic look, for Classics do monochrome more often than you´d think, but with the understated feel in lines, detail and length paired with a very put together appearance, you rarely pay extra attention to it than "expected" since it fits the context it is in. Dramatic is more memorable because of the surprise of the theatricality and the intimidating feel - that´s my thoughts, anyway.
I was confused initially because Dramatic often do the most dramatically monochrome looks with their palette neutrals, the partial domaine of Classic(including black, white and grey), so distinguishing when it was Classic and Dramatic with your and Ignacias input was very helpful.

In terms of the color question-thread with Melina, we weren´t using our features to determine color season (if we did we would have missed a VERY big point of this blog :P ) but rather to determine why an all-white ensemble wasn´t working for a person with a high-contrast season - which is because her overall coloring was "dark season" already but match the lighter part of her color palette, aka. the parts that are light and fair within the context of the DA palette, and so with the white it didn´t provide as much contrast as a dark monochromatic look did. Remember the Award-article very early on on this blog with Eva Longoria on the red carpet? She was guessed to be a DA, and she, in her features, matches the darker parts of her palette, and so a black dress on her reads as boring and diminishing because it doesn´t provide enough contrast. That was the conclusion I later based my inquiry to Melina on.

But I still appreciate your input, you are right in that it is quite hard to determine your season without a proper draping-session.

Hopefully Melina lives in the US or Canada, so she can take advantage of Rachels color draping-cards, if she wants the extra help (I don´t, so I have to use what I have available).

I hope I didn´t come off as argumentative, I just wanted to show my thought-process (and I appreciate good-spirited debate, if it promotes overall understanding). Thanks again for your input :)

12/13/2019 01:38:40 pm

Ah! I'm sorry I misunderstood then. Thanks for your kind reply, and best of luck in finding your colors!

BTW, I have noticed on Amazon, you can occasionally find swatchbooks. They aren't the as accurate as TIB's ones, I found, but they're pretty reasonable. Maybe they ship to Europe?

https://www.amazon.com/s?me=A3NFPGLBB34AOJ&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Christy

12/17/2019 02:48:16 pm

Hi, color novice! I am also EDC and DA! I was style typed by Rachel about 18 months ago, and it was life changing. I am 50 % D, 30 % E, and 10% C, so I do think those percentages matter here.

I have been working in a very traditional field for years, so have always striven to be "Classic" in appearance, and the style typing really opened my eyes to why many purely classic things didn't work for me: I look far more otherworldy in every sense. I have always leaned a bit monochromatic, though, and I do think that is my D taking over.

As Rachel has noted in other posts, monochromatic or high contrast color blocking can be D. I CAN wear DA whites and still be D and not look washed out (very dark hair, so covers the need for contrast). The differences between D and C (and this took some experimentation), at least on me, have to deal with silhouette, proportion, and fit. If I wear a DA white (an E color in my view, not really C), or any other E color scheme, I need for the fit to be narrow and at least partly structured.

I personally narrowed my closet to a limited number of "best" DA colors that fit with my style type. I really don't use the medium C colors much anymore, since I have to really work to get them to project my style ID, having so little C. You may be able to use them completely differently based on your percentages.

I think it is important to look at the whole picture, too. Clothes are not everything. If my hair is down, or its natural state (wavy to frizzy), that is a LOT of E for me, so everything else needs to be D or C (mostly D, obviously). Makeup and accessories can really helped balance things out, too,. I am starting to acquire some long narrow pendants for when I need more D. Or curved highly detailed dangling earrings for when I slick back my hair (a style I had NEVER tried before, but works with the right balance). Similarly, when I need to make a traditional first impression I tend to go more C with my makeup by using my best reds to look healthy, instead of a nude lip and smoky eye combo. Those days I need more D elsewhere, like in my clothes.

I think the journey does not end by knowing your style ID or color ID, it just lends parameters that make choices easier. I hope this helps.

12/17/2019 03:25:41 pm

Hi Christy.
So awesome with a real life example, and so amazing that Rachel could make such a difference for you (giving people a good place to start counts) :-D
I have experimented on my own (I am a college student so...) and my percentages are more strongly skewered towards Ethereal, so even with a halo of flowy, wavy hair I still need some elements of Ethereal in my overall presentation to balance it. I have a strong masculine tendency, though. My best hairdo when I was a kid (I didn't dress ethereally back then) was a braid that had slightly come apart so the free hair would give a halo effect (if it came apart too much I would just look like a mess). I have also noticed that slicked hair looks great on me, as long as it isn't glued to my head, but still waves and curles a bit like a mermaid coming out of the ocean, yet isn't shaggy or tousled. Funny, right? :-)

A picture is really starting to form with everyones great input, and how they compliment and confirm each other. Your point on the white especially struck a chord since I too felt like your season somewhat (but not always) can mean that "color families" can read differently for different palettes, or tilt more towards one essence than another because of temperature and depth. I was already considering Ignacias advice about maybe DA white could be a really good place for me to start experimenting. Now I am getting excited to try!

The parameter phrasing was a good way to word it, I agree with you on that - they shouldn't be limiting for creativity, just give understanding as to why different elements have the effects they do. When you know, you can play with them :-)

If you don't mind me asking, how do you deal with the "no separates" tendency there is to our essences? Rachels blogpost about separates was a mindblowing read, and I get it in theory, like matching colors to give the impression of everything being a set, but it can be harder to do in practice.

Thank you for reply, it was very helpful :-D (and sorry my reply is this long)

12/19/2019 07:08:01 pm

Hey, Color Novice! Just saw your response, and yes, the no separates thing is a problem for me. While I love it in theory (one of my first purchases after style typing was a black flowy jumpsuit), real life is challenging for this blend. I have used the monochromatic thing, and coordinated “bought as a set” idea to compensate. I misstated my percentage above, though (math challenged). My Classic percentage is 20%. For me, I use that for fit and waist definition. Anything too boxy or flowy overwhelms me. It helps to keep in mind that both D and C have elements of control to them. C is more about restraint, while D is about dominance. If you are more E, you can probably use DA whites, sunset or sunrise colors, and add a lot of detail and embellishment on your clothes or in jewelry that I have to pass on. If you are a student, the casual nature of things can be a challenge, too, as EDC is pretty formal. I think Rachel’s pinterest boards are great places to start, but don’t be afraid to play. Not every day will be perfect.

1/1/2020 12:36:28 pm

On re-reading some of these articles and re-browsing Rachel's boards, I've begun to wonder if I actually have Classic instead of D, as I've thought... (So, R-I-E-C instead of R-I-E-D.) I realized find more myself in Romantic-Classic-Ingenue and Ethereal-Classic-Ingenue than e.g. Romantic-Ethereal-Dramatic (though it may also be just the fact that Ingenue is of main importance for me, which is missing here). Though OTOH, I do find a lot of myself also in Romantic-Dramatic-Ingenue... It's confusing. (And what adds to that is that most clothes on the boards are not really suited for everyday life, so you have to dress them down with adding N, whether you actually have it or not.) The calculator isn't really helpful with this, as on it I just always get a straight R-E-I, all 30%, but I don't find that quite reliable, I'm sure I have a 4th essence that is masculine or neutral (like C), and D and C are the best contenders. And what W wrote above, "And I think all black is done so often, it frequently can read more classic than dramatic" really struck a chord, it just might explain why I default to black so much... And in many cases I do go for understated, e.g. I don't really like coloured polishes, my go-to is very light transparent polish, which is the classic French manicure, and also my jewellery & accessory use is minimal, and also in hair styling - I couldn't do the "TV anchor" hairdos, but *some* amount of C is necessary, i.e. polished looks better than wild / dramatic. I could never do straight-up C, but as a minor essence it does seem plausible to me. And considering having 5 essences may be a bit too much ;)

1/7/2020 03:09:34 am

Actually, this has now been confirmed by the calculator, re-did it with slightly new eyes and the result: 25% each of Romantic, Ethereal, Ingenue & Classic :) (Just wonder what's the shortening for that, RECI? REIC? ;))

Claire

1/9/2020 07:39:12 am

How can a Bright season wear Classic colors when brights look their best in contrasting hues? I know there are classic colors in Bright season palette, but a bright season in neutral colors? Well, just doesn’t cut it.

1/10/2020 03:29:25 am

That really must be one of the hardest combinations! Especially for BSp; a BW can do black & white or dark navy, thus have contrast and still be Classic, but that's not as doable for BSp. Sorry I have no advice as to that, I can just offer my sympathies ;)

1/10/2020 05:42:19 am

I know, right? I’m a Classic and looks best in the cooler shades of Bright Spring and warmer shades of Bright Winter. Some neutrals are meh, some okay, but not amazing like the bright colors are against my skin.

Moara

2/9/2020 07:30:22 pm

I think you can still look classic by pairing one bright colour with neutrals. And you can be a little creative with your neutrals... think bright navy and khaki green.

A teal dress with yellow and pink accessories reads gamine, but a teal dress with white accessories will look classic.

Navy and yellow is a classic combination, as is black-and-white stripes with bright peach.

Search for Taylor Swift's preppy outfits. She's a bright spring who looks quite classic in bright colours (when she chooses to).

2/10/2020 12:20:38 am

Thanks, Moara! You’re right about one bright color plus neutral accessories. Kate Middleton still looks very classic with bright dresses worn with neutral accessories.

Ulrika

6/28/2021 03:08:23 pm

I’m a natural classic ingenue soft autumn. I often use a palette similar to the natural palette. I love vintage style but not vintage values. During the cold part of the year I have a style similar to British country estate aristocracy. In the summer I turn more safari style. I love organic loose patterns and classic patterns. I love knits and buttons. I would call my interpretation of my personal natural classic ingenue style “Sophisticated bookish organic style”. With proper pockets and comfortable shoes.

Henners

6/28/2021 08:52:53 pm

British country estate aristocracy! That’s the look I’ve been aspiring to nail down! I am a Bright Spring Dramatic classic ingenue. Do you think there is a way I can get such look while staying true to my colours and essence?

6/28/2021 03:15:12 pm

Here’s a link for those who are curious:

https://pin.it/5zsNOhi

Truth is Beauty

Finding Your Best Colors as a Classic

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