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Am I a "Rectangle"?

3/11/2019

The vast, vast majority of style advice is about your body. Have you noticed this?

How to make your bust look bigger if you're flat-chested, or smaller if you're busty. How to make your tush look rounder or how to disguise a really big tush. How to make your legs look longer if they're short, or shorter if they're long. Et cetera.

I have a tiny bust and narrow hips. And fashion gurus have been telling me all my life that this makes me a "rectangle, " and that I should dress in a way that makes me appear to have a narrow waist and a full bust. For example, I'm supposed to wear padded bikini tops with ruffles. This site tells me I need "Dresses that add definition to your bottom and necklines that add meat to the upper body. " This site says "always add belts to your tops and dresses. " This site says "You need to create the illusion of a waist."

When you stop and think about it, you realize that style advice like this is based on two assumptions:

1. Other people are mainly looking at your body, not your face.

2. Every woman looks most beautiful when her body appears as a perfectly proportioned hourglass.

Neither of these things is true.

Number 1 is obviously false. You'd be hard-pressed to correctly identify anyone but your closest family members if you could only see them from the neck down. By contrast, you'll recognize a face you haven't seen in 20 years, even if it's been changed by age. Our brains are wired to notice and remember faces. When we look at other people, that's mainly what we're looking at.

Number 2 is also demonstrably false. Some women with ample curves look most lovely when their curves are exaggerated, and some full-figured women look most lovely when their curves are downplayed. Some women with flat busts and hips look best in clothes that emphasize the flatness, and some look their best in clothes that create a suggestion of curves.

A curvy woman who's more lovely in clothes that de-emphasize her curves: Jamie Lee Curtis:

A less-curvy woman who looks her best when her curves are played down, not emphasized: Emma Watson.

A curvy woman who looks much better when her curves are emphasized than when her curves are obscured: Christina Hendricks.

A woman with a straight silhouette who looks lovelier when the illusion of curves is created: Olivia Wilde.

In each of these cases, "body type" has nothing to do with what clothes are flattering. There are women of every body type who look fantastic with a cinched waist and a sweetheart neckline. There are women of every body type who look amazing in rectangular or squarish silhouettes with no waist or bust emphasis.

What's the controlling factor, then? The face.

Jamie Lee Curtis has a primarily Dramatic face that's flattered by long, straight lines and minimalism.

Emma Watson has a primarily Gamine face that's flattered by shorter straight lines and small shapes.

Christina Hendricks and Olivia Wilde both have faces with a lot of Romantic, so they both look great in clothes that create the impression of a sexy, womanly figure. (I suspect Wilde has Dramatic and
perhaps Classic as well.)

As an Ethereal Natural, neither of my dominant identities is flattered by a sexy, full bustline or a cinched waist. What's the point of me appearing to have an hourglass figure if that figure clashes with my face, which is what people are actually looking at?

I look my best in a sort of abstract, feminine minimalism that feels casual. My bust is unemphasized and my waist is uncinched, and it looks great.

"Body type" advice is bogus.

Despite what you've been led to believe, we are all focusing on your face, not your body.

To achieve visual harmony, dress for your face.

Not sure of your style type? Try the Style Identity Calculator, or invest in a virtual analysis.

35 Comments

Jessica

3/11/2019 01:34:59 pm

Really great article!!

Lizzie

3/11/2019 01:56:17 pm

So true! I’m a vertically-challenged, “funsized” romantic. I remember in middle school when someone first explained to me what a butterface was :) I believe the term by definition is rude. But I think what people are really denoting is a woman or man with a very R or D body (respectively) but lack thereof in the face.

Lizzie

3/13/2019 03:44:57 pm

Rachel or Katja... Or whoever runs this blog? Maybe I’m using the wrong names (I’m new to this website).

I know I’ve asked before and I hope I’m not nagging... but is there *anything* you tell me about REG? Celebs officially typed as REG, any REG clothing stores, style bloggers... anything? I see on my shopping guide that REG is a rarer type and I agree. Which is why I’m inquiring. Because this a more challenging ID to shop for... and your blog is the only website that acknowledges my ID’s existence.

It appears that most other Shopping Guides have a section that lists Style ID stores and such, but mine does not (which I was looking forward to). I feel a bit misled because this was the main reason someone gifted me my REG Shopping Guide. So I could find a place to shop for myself...

Miranda

3/14/2019 02:28:08 am

I'm an REG! I'm still figuring it out, but I'd love to talk about it. I haven't found any place in particular to shop. I'm using an RG color scheme (jewel tones with high color contrast, either purple/teal or fuchsia/teal), experimenting with silhouettes (so far skinny jeans + draped/ruched top is my favorite), and adding E in with sparkle and shine.
I made a Pinterest board with some of my ideas about variations on REG: https://www.pinterest.com/miraculish/romantic-ethereal-gamine/
You're welcome to message me there if you like. I'd love to talk with someone else with the same style ID!

Jo.

3/16/2019 06:16:51 am

To Miranda and everyone who knows,
Miranda, you have some threads with lace up back - is this only Romantic? Is tying strings (ribbon) Romantic, and what about lace-up shoes? Is it Romantic, Natural or Ethereal?

p.s. to Rachel - the system with adding a comment on this blog is passive-agressive, I mean it takes so much time to go through all this anti-bot security pictures clicking...

Melina

3/17/2019 11:44:55 am

Jo, I don't get any anti-bot security pictures clicking when adding a comment on this site (though many other sites have it), sounds strange if some get it and some not?

Gabriella

3/11/2019 02:18:52 pm

Rachel, as an "expert" you should know that Jamie is not curvy. She is a rectangle, like you. Do not write things that´s not true.

Kels

3/11/2019 07:01:23 pm

Not only is curviness relative, but one can easily see that Rachel’s point is proven by simply comparing Jamie’s outfits. The one on the right is more harmonious and flatters JLC’s face more. Which was the point of the post. Regardless of whether Jamie is curvy by your standards, the point stands. There is always someone like you anonymously, yet harshly criticizing the things Rachel writes. It’s a wonder she does us this service anymore with the way you guys often voice your opinions like they’re facts. It’s fine to voice a disagreement, but why be disrespectful?

3/13/2019 05:16:53 am

Kels, oh don't panic - there are not many ppl like you've described :)
Gabrielle - when I read you I have a feeling that you are jealous of Rachel's knowledge. What was your point?

Gabriella

3/11/2019 02:38:32 pm

I meant Do not write things that are not true.

3/11/2019 04:08:51 pm

Your post is very rude, and what's more, how do you claim to know better what kind of body Jamie Lee Curtis has, have you so closely observed her...?

Mary Ellen

3/16/2019 01:36:16 pm

Gabriella, Miss Curtis herself has said that she has a curvy body type. You are just flat out rude!

Violet

3/11/2019 03:17:37 pm

Wow! I have never thought of this but makes a LOT of sense. Love your originality and insights.

Melina

3/11/2019 04:04:24 pm

So true, I was always a bit baffled by the "rectangle" advice, and other similar stupid fashion categories ;) But mostly ignored them and dressed up in the way that was flattering to me. Now I realize I'm probably of the last category that Olivia Wilde represents (I'm REI). :)

3/11/2019 04:15:56 pm

Great part, and great point!

I do find I dress for my body a bit, though. That is, I think I have a Natural Classic face But as my waist is thinnest under the bust and not at the natural waist, I never do waist emphasis like a classic would. If wear a belt, it's at the high hip, natural style. But because I'm pear shaped, I also avoid a blousson natural waist. I keep the waist trim, but not emphasized. For me, it's about finding perfect proportions (classic) on a slightly irregular and longer frame (natural).

Still, I do find I have to apply body type guidelines as well as style ones to look my best. But again, that might be because I *am* going for a classic hourglass?

All I know is I can wear pearl earrings and a pearl bracelet and they look great, but a pearl necklace is the kidk of death for me. No idea why. (Insert shrug emoji here)

Miranda

3/14/2019 02:37:03 am

I find I need to pick the elements that suit both my body and my style ID (REG) to look my best. A crewneck (G) might give an impression that suits my face, but my long decolletage means that a more open neckline suits me better, and so I go with R recommendations for necklines. I have a short mid-body, so a G waist treatment is also not great - luckily, E and R waist treatments suit me all around.
Maybe the necklace thing is due to your decolletage length? I would never do an E necklace length for me, only R. The thickness of a necklace matters a lot to my proportions as well.

Melina

3/14/2019 04:01:27 am

Miranda, can I ask what is a R necklace length..? I realize E necklace length is probably long, but no idea of R length.

Kels

3/15/2019 01:12:12 pm

Maybe sitting right in one’s décolletage?

Jo.

3/16/2019 07:31:51 am

Miranda,
...but when someone has short-mid body it's adviced not to wear details on the waist, so G sounds perfect - because G ignores waist. In other words - you have short waist and when you wear cinched waist dress (Romantic) it will make your waist even shorter. I don't get it.

Miranda

3/16/2019 06:26:20 pm

Melina: R necklaces are short, like 16". I'm not sure if collars are R, but I seem to have good success with those two lengths. An inch longer and they just look weird on me.

Jo: Actually G waistlines make me look really, really short through the midbody to a truly ridiculous degree. I'm not sure why the common recommendations don't work for me because I measured my proportions very carefully (balanced with a short midbody). Perhaps it's how proportions interact with style ID? Or perhaps body shape (I'm an X-shape). An E waist treatment does elongate my waist and looks good, as the recommendations say it should - however, R also looks really good. I think it's because for R, you want to encourage the impression of an hourglass figure. I'm not particularly curvy and an R waist helps create that impression, and it's possibly so effective *because* I have a short midbody. Think of someone with a significant bust, how that can shorten the look of their torso.

Lizzie

3/16/2019 07:08:08 pm

Hey Miranda! I’m going to reply to you here since the “reply” button is strangely missing on your response to my comment.

Thanks Miranda!! I don’t have a Pinterest account but your link preview looks sooo great and your tips are on point! So happy to hear from another REG. Feel free to msg me anytime here if you like.

Love those colors you mentioned too. Very peachy or coral colors paired with E blue is also fun combo. Very nude mauve with white or light gray-blue bottoms is another great one. Light, nude, or sky blue shoes are also fun way to suggest E “floating” concept while adding Gamine unexpected pop of color. Sometimes tightfitting ribbed texture items work too. When in doubt I’ll throw in wintery white, delicate nonearthy cream, or a jewel tone. Also- for casual wear, the small diffs between N and E are what I try to keep an eye out for. A tee can work if it’s roll sleeve, airy, and low scoopneck. Tanks can be a good too if done right. Also a lot of REG items are kinda... pajama-y? People have commented this to me in person and even on Rachel’s REG pins the “related” pins are silk pjs (I guess b/c it’s suggestive of R)? Surprisingly, light colored ripped jeans (paired with a R top) can work better than most jeans if the rips are frayed in an E way with floaty strings hanging off. Visible stitching can add more detail for REG if it’s not done in an N practical way. Meshy or lacy bralettes emphasize the bust (and they give the illusion of “magically” providing support while simultaneously being airy). A messy bun can be RE if it’s curly with floaty pieces and a round bun (not truly a N messy bun). Faded, delicate, organic, and abstract in an E sense overall- not overworn, practical, or distressed in a N way.

I’ve been trying to get the hang of casual everyday wear for myself lately without sacrificing my essences or femininity level. I must say I am jealous of Ns in this sense. So far I’ve learned that for a REG *casual* look: Clean lined, touchable silky-sheer, many profusely detailed accessories, and medium to low contrast color scheme- yes. Plain, low detail, minimalist, low contrast earthy color scheme- no. Sleek is too ED. Boho is too EN. Modern sometimes works but so does 20’s flapper and other period styles LOL. I like to think “ageless but not classic” works well for REG. Which is a beautiful sentiment when you stop to think about it. Lastly, this was a challenging concept to grasp initially..... but REG looks more revealing by intentionally or deliberately adding cutouts and sheer overlays and such. By adding sheer layers, emphasizing R cutouts and necklines by covering up the rest of body, or utilizing the draping qualities of cloth to emphasize body shape... REG become more beautiful with the *illusion* of bareness rather than actual natural bareness. While I don’t believe in the religious theme behind mythological entities... This video about fictional Venus and how the bare statue is globally considered “Modest Venus” while the clothed Venus is NOT was mindblowing for me as a REG (www.khanacademy.org/humanities/ancient-art-civilizations/greek-art/late-classical/v/capitoline-venus)!

Melina

3/17/2019 11:48:50 am

Miranda, thanks, that's as I thought :) I just have to find some kind of balance in length, as I have both R and E (the same with clothes, of course). ;)

Miranda

3/18/2019 09:15:14 pm

Lizzie, is there a way to message on here?

One of the things I love about this system is the great variety in how each person can interpret their ID according to their percentages and their personal taste. Yours sounds beautiful! I couldn't do the light colors that you do because I don't have enough E at this time in my life, but I suspect when my hair goes (more) silver that E colors will be the most appropriate.

I struggle with casual clothing too, though I find I'm losing my taste for the very N looks I used to admire. My goal right now is to build a capsule that is N in function and comfort, but REG in look. For instance, I just found a pair of plum skinny jeans to replace my blue denim, and I hope to find a pair of deep pink. I have a pair of peep toe sandals that I dyed silver - they look fancy, but they're actually minimalist and comfy enough to hike in. I'm in the midst of modifying the necklines of a couple of t-shirts to be more R, and my favorite draped top is a jersey knit.
I'm struggling with casual toppers to go with my skinnies though - they need to be flowy and possibly belted, or to partially close and have built-in detail at the natural waist. I'm trying to avoid putting off my wardrobe acquisition until I get around to making stuff, but I might not have much choice when it comes to comfy flowy toppers. Skirts and dresses are easier in that regard because I can wear blazers and vests.
Thank you for the link! That's fascinating and makes a lot of sense. I have a large deep pink t-shirt to modify into a tunic and I think I'll add some cut-outs.

Kellie link

3/11/2019 04:43:02 pm

So true dressing for the face is better. I fall more into the Emma Watson catagory .

Jamie does seem to have curves to some degree but her face is Dramatic and that look is more flattering for her .

Kellie link

3/11/2019 04:45:18 pm

I’m not sure I would even notice close family below the neck! Not every time.

3/12/2019 02:03:35 pm

I think a possible indicator of what type you may have is through trying to figure out what effect you give if you wear something low cut or more revealing.

For example, I think there are clothes that can be revealing without necessarily being romantic, and the effect of, for example, a low cut neckline would be different. A sweetheart neckline that is revealing on a woman with lots of R would be sensual, while a low cut but more sharp neckline that would still read as Dramatic on a D woman would look more daring. On Wilde, it seems to have both of those effects, and I think it's because as the post said, some of the essences she has are R and D (although admittedly I'd prefer a less round neckline on her).

Albie

3/12/2019 03:10:12 pm

Being a large part of the face/head, hair often makes or breaks a look. Especially for hairdos requiring control and neatness: D,C influences. Dressing for face is supported even from this perspective.

As usual people disagree, e.g. Merriam Style argues for face&body together approach it seems https://youtu.be/SqC-gvYFhbg

I personally think face&hair should at least receive a higher weight than body.

Mary Ellen

3/15/2019 08:49:08 pm

I am a natural-ingénue. What works for me is to dress ingénue around my face and keep the more natural lines from my bust down. I definitely agree that the face is much more important to flatter than the body.

3/15/2019 11:00:49 pm

I’m an NI too (with some E). I’ve found I need to use more N design lines with I details, prints, and color. I have a really long neck, and I Peter Pan collars look ridiculous on me.

Mary Ellen

3/16/2019 01:54:50 pm

It is cool how we can be of the same essence but have different body types. My neck is short, but I need the girlish femininity of ingénue around my face. :-) Speaking of that, are there any ingenues out there who have favorites among earrings? I would love some new ideas.

3/16/2019 09:59:59 pm

I like The Dotted Poppy on Etsy. Lots of nature inspired pieces that are still light and girly. Or when in doubt, I wear my season’s version of pink in a simple drop/dangle single bead earring. Goes with everything.

Marta

3/16/2019 04:44:39 pm

So true! I'm an ED (with a little of Gamine and Romantic) and I struggle to find non-revealing swimsuits. I don't have a flat bust at all but sexy clothing doesn't suit me and looking for a bikini which isn't revealing is super difficult!
I've been told to look like Bella Hadid and I've improved my style so much dressing more like she does. BTW If anyone is good in typing people, do you think she could be an EDG as I am supposing?

Jo.

3/16/2019 05:21:39 pm

Marta, I suspect she has DE and perhaps R as well.

Jo.

3/17/2019 07:13:50 am

Lizzie, and what about tying strings? esp. on the back- in inverted triangle shape, like a corset - how do you feel wearing these? I know that kind of must be R, but there are tying both on ED board ( a high heels and a dress) and on R board on Rachel pinterest and I can't distinguish between E and R kind of tying. Do you distinguish between?

dia

3/18/2019 01:39:35 am

Something's been bugging me... the people who notice my body the most ARE my close relatives (specifically gossipy aunts). Matching my wardrobe to my face in a work situation makes sense, because that's the part of me people are societally expected to be looking at. But my family doesn't have these reservations, and will judge my body as they please. This is most present in pictures. Sure, we notice mostly a face in real life, but a still image puts every part of the body on display. It's these circumstances where I think trying to fake a conventionally attractive body shape is useful.
Someone asked in another post if they should have a "healthy glow" if their style ID contradicts that (I think they were Ethereal?). It may depend on context. I'm DNC but I have to go heavier on DC at work because the amount of N to make me look fully myself would look sloppy in that environment. Body shape works the same way- maybe Christina Hendricks looks *better* in a sexy outfit, but that's not always what the situation calls for.
I think style analysis, body types, coloring, etc. are useful tools to help create a desired effect. By knowing what people will read into my physical appearance, I can manipulate that. We can all look professional, sexy, playful, otherworldly; it just may take different tricks to get there.
We can look harmonious, but we can also look jarring. Ms. Hendricks in a level gaze and a sharp blazer can certainly make a heart skip a beat.

Am I a "Rectangle"?

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